Where can I find velcro power sanding discs that are labeled by grit size?
Thanks
Thanks
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Labeled Sanding Discs?
- Thread starter Tom Albrecht
- Start date
The wavy ones I get from Kingspor have the grit size on the back (printing pattern doesn’t get all the numbers on always but is pretty good).
You could find some in my shop. But only because I wrote the grit on them with a Sharpie marker.
Unfortunately, the ones I like (Blue Flex from vinceswoodnwonders.com) are mostly not labeled when they arrive. I've come to accept the hassle of marking them myself, would consider changing if I could find equivalent performance in discs that were marked by the manufacturer.
Unfortunately, the ones I like (Blue Flex from vinceswoodnwonders.com) are mostly not labeled when they arrive. I've come to accept the hassle of marking them myself, would consider changing if I could find equivalent performance in discs that were marked by the manufacturer.
I also use Vince's blue sanding discs are they are very good but they are unmarked. You will need a sharpie to mark them.
Our former Forum Admin, Steve Worcester owns www.turningwood.com He sells some of the best-labeled discs: Abranet. He also has some other brands, Gold Mirka. I use both, love them.
I too use Vince's blue flex discs, the quality and performance far outweigh the minor hassle of having to mark the disc.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I never understood the need to mark them. My discs are all in a box that has bins. Each grit and its mandrel is in it's own bin. Since I have a mandrel for each grit I only replace worn out grits with the same grit.
I have used every brand of sanding disk at one time or another. The longest lasting ,the most uniform grit by far is Mirka. These are sold by Steve Worcester at TurningWood.com.
Woodturning Wonders sells disks that are color coded and most are also visibly labelled.
I bought a number rubber stamp for $5 at office max- you turn the dial to make any number combination you want-the numbers are small- but easy enough to read what grit- i just quickly mark each disc when i get the new package- currently using vinces blue discs-
John, do you have some kind of quick change chuck? I like the dedicated mandrel idea but don’t like to think of changing into the drill. I already have two drills so I don’t have to change between 2” and 3” mandrel but still have to exchange between soft/hard ones anyway. Dedicating mandrel by grit could solve most of that, but at the expense of changing mandrel by grit
On discs that aren't well marked - Instead of writing - 120, 180, 220 etc. I just write 1, 2, 3 etc. Saves a little time and Sharpies!
Dave et al, do you find the round Vince’s blue discs dig in at the edges? Years ago I used other round discs that were on thick backing and found the edges dug in. Not a problem on bowl exteriors but gave me fits sanding interiors. Switched to the wavy edged discs and have been happy since...until I looked at the price for Vince’s - looks more like 20cts per instead of the 30cts per I’ve been paying
I have sanding disks and sheets. I mark all with a Sharpie if the grit number isn't visible or present. If I cut a sheet for whatever reason, I mark the grit on the back.
I keep my discs stacked in a long partitioned tray so I don't have to think about grit numbers. I haven't been able to tell by feel, though that is one of those guessing games I play, kind of like guessing the wall thickness on a bowl before getting out my thickness gauge. New unused discs are abrasive side up. Discs in use are fuzzy side up.
As far as best disc, I like the ones from Vince. I did try the Mirka, and on a 14 inch bowl, one disc would be worn out before getting the outside sanded down, and grit # didn't matter. With the ones from Vince, I can get 2 or so bowls before I need to replace the disc. There was an abrasive from 3M called 'cubitron' or some thing like that, which was a special ceramic type of grit and they are purple. They used to be available in only PSA rather than hook and loop. I was watching one turner on You Tube, and she had discs of it up to 400 or so. That would make it more appealing. I do remember Mike Mahoney commenting that it lasted 4 times longer or some thing like that. Only had one piece of it, so never really gave it a hard work out.
As for edge marks from the discs, stiff discs, for sure will do that. Same with discs that are the same size as the interface pad, especially the firm pads. The edge of the pad can leave 80 grit scratch marks in what ever it is that you are sanding out.... Part of why I use the rounded over firm discs, and discs that are bigger than my pads. I do some times, get scratch marks from the more coarse grits, up to 120 or so, and this is more in the transition area of the bowl rather than the walls or bottom of the bowl.
I did try some of the Abranet type discs. They reminded me of the Astra Dot discs, which had little dots of abrasive on a disc rather than a solid coating. The theory was that they clogged up less than the full cover type of discs. Experiments with them left me with the feeling that up to 180 or so grit, the solid coat type discs cut faster. At or above 220, there was almost no difference in how they cut. Pretty much the same with clogging up. I do dry sanding only. This may make a difference if I was to wet sand, both with green wood or with finish on the wood.
robo hippy
As far as best disc, I like the ones from Vince. I did try the Mirka, and on a 14 inch bowl, one disc would be worn out before getting the outside sanded down, and grit # didn't matter. With the ones from Vince, I can get 2 or so bowls before I need to replace the disc. There was an abrasive from 3M called 'cubitron' or some thing like that, which was a special ceramic type of grit and they are purple. They used to be available in only PSA rather than hook and loop. I was watching one turner on You Tube, and she had discs of it up to 400 or so. That would make it more appealing. I do remember Mike Mahoney commenting that it lasted 4 times longer or some thing like that. Only had one piece of it, so never really gave it a hard work out.
As for edge marks from the discs, stiff discs, for sure will do that. Same with discs that are the same size as the interface pad, especially the firm pads. The edge of the pad can leave 80 grit scratch marks in what ever it is that you are sanding out.... Part of why I use the rounded over firm discs, and discs that are bigger than my pads. I do some times, get scratch marks from the more coarse grits, up to 120 or so, and this is more in the transition area of the bowl rather than the walls or bottom of the bowl.
I did try some of the Abranet type discs. They reminded me of the Astra Dot discs, which had little dots of abrasive on a disc rather than a solid coating. The theory was that they clogged up less than the full cover type of discs. Experiments with them left me with the feeling that up to 180 or so grit, the solid coat type discs cut faster. At or above 220, there was almost no difference in how they cut. Pretty much the same with clogging up. I do dry sanding only. This may make a difference if I was to wet sand, both with green wood or with finish on the wood.
robo hippy
That's what I'm working with now and it's almost time to order some new ones, so I thought Id ask.
I would imagine that's a lot of mandrels! Especially if you work with different sizes.
Mine are stored in a vertical file folder with each file marked with the grit.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
No I just use a standard Dewalt 3/8" drill with a keyless chuck. Most of my mandrels have hex shanks. I am thinking about buying g a few more and using g a quick release in my drill.John, do you have some kind of quick change chuck? I like the dedicated mandrel idea but don’t like to think of changing into the drill. I already have two drills so I don’t have to change between 2” and 3” mandrel but still have to exchange between soft/hard ones anyway. Dedicating mandrel by grit could solve most of that, but at the expense of changing mandrel by grit
I use Mirka Gold from Turning Wood on the Woodturners Wonders . Discs stored in drawer in trays.
Roger Wiegand
Beta Tester
I label with a sharpie, as I've discovered my desire for great sandpaper outweighs ny desire to have each one labeled. It's taken decades to develop the habit of just labeling a new batch when I put it out, even knowing how useful it will be I begrudge the 20 seconds it takes. I keep disks and mandrels in a bin system like this:
The interchangeable mandrels are from WoodTurnersWonders. Each grit gets it's own pad.
The interchangeable mandrels are from WoodTurnersWonders. Each grit gets it's own pad.
Since the bag the disks come in is labeled I just leave the disks in the bag and stack the bags in size order in a box.
I like the oversized blue disks from Vince...and "yes" it would be nice if the disks came labeled with a grit marking. However, I hit it with a Sharpie and view this as a minor inconvenience in the overall scheme of things. While I am in a pondering mood...would any of us even be turners without the invention of the "Sharpie?"
I use WoodTurners Wonders Rolloc system. You only need 1 mandrel in each size as the Rolloc system has a firm pad that mounts / unmounts with a twist of the wrist. Each of my pads are marked with the grit it is dedicated to and I keep them in drawers with the appropriate sanding disk. The cabinet is mounted on a pivot so that I have it right next to me during my sanding and then pivoted out of the way go give me access to my grinder which is out of sight right behind the cabinet.
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I work about like Paul does above. The Woodturners Wonder roloc adapters are great. I have one adapter for each grit and I label the adapter not the paper. Anything in that bin is the same grit as he pad so it doesn’t need a label going in. The only time I grab the sharpie is for using a “worn” disc for hand sanding (since the middle of the disc is sometimes still up to the task when the outside is worn) and then only if it isn’t marked by the manufacurer.
Good discussion, with lots of useful tidbits here. Thanks guys.
After weeks of confusion looking at all the different bowl-sanding systems, I called Steve this morning and, after asking me questions about what I'm turning (bowls up to about 8-11" in diameter) he guided me through what I needed, and I ordered the whole system. Totally nice guy! I look forward to trying it out, as sanding bowls by hand is for the birds.
Thanks for all the different opinions-I am finding that wood turners have as many opinions and approaches as some of my other pursuits like razor restorations and honing, and smoking barbecue. I continue to learn a great deal here!
John,
I picked up quick release adapters for my drill, they work great. Also used the hex bit sets to make my own pads. Drilled hole in wood block, pressed in bit and trued up on lathe. Cut a HD kneeling pad and add verlcro to pad. If the get too hot you have to reglue the verlco.
Thanks Aaron,
I am curious to know what Steve recommended and what you are getting in your whole system. Could you share that with us?
Sure, Tom-To start, per Steve's recommendation I am getting the 2" mandrel, the soft backer, a couple of the protective pads, and 10-packs each of Mirka Gold from 80-grit to 600. As I have been stopping on 400 to 600 and continuing on with Yorkshire Grit, I don't think I need anything finer
I too just placed an order with
One of the things that leaned me his way is the fact that I am not crazy about oversize discs. I find them more problematic than helpful. All of his discs sized as named, 1"", 2", 3".
steve@turningwood.com
...A very helpful and knowledgeable guy, no hard sell, no BS.One of the things that leaned me his way is the fact that I am not crazy about oversize discs. I find them more problematic than helpful. All of his discs sized as named, 1"", 2", 3".
Well, that's why we have chocolate and vanilla, but then, I prefer rocky road... I like the way Vince's oversized disks wrap around the rounded interface pads for sanding in and out of curves, or close to the foot, but when used with the straight pad, can sand into a sharp corner. Steves disks are labeled, just not a deal breaker for me.
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Has anyone done a comparison between Vince’s BlueFlex discs and his GreenFlex discs? I’ve used both, and both seem to do a good job, but I haven’t tried comparing their performance side by side. I’m sure there must be a difference other than color.
I was in Vince's booth at the Raleigh symposium. I asked his wife what was the difference between the green and the blue. What I walked away with was that the main difference is the green disks have the grit labeled on the back.