Super tough, super fast, super easy, high gloss. Hmmm.
I don't know what "shine juice" is. Anyway, most surface finishes will be food contact safe after a month of curing. A built up, cured surface finish is nothing more than coat of plastic. Most food and drink containers are some form of plastic, so buyers who insist on food safe are simply without knowledge. They probably have a plastic water bottle with them as they poo-poo woodworking finishes.
Anyway, shellac is natural, builds fast on the surface, and can give a high gloss. Alcohol will dissolve it, though, so be careful with food contact pieces. Not the toughest.
Lacquer- I can't speak to it enough, but it is a surface finish, and can give a high gloss. Some versions can be fast and tough. Best for food? I don't know.
Varnishes, and there are a thousand different varnishes. Osmo, Minwax, General, Waterlox, Tried & True, all "Danish oils", and on and on. But all of them have a solvent (petrochemical or water) to make them a liquid for application, and which evaporate out leaving the plastic film. And they have the plastic film resin itself (phenolics, if still available, and alkyds and polyurethanes being most common), and if oil based, the oil (linseed, tung, or other unidentified vegetable oils) will penetrate the wood, can change the tone of the wood, and with enough coats will cure on the surface through polymerization into... a coat of plastic. Unless specifically stated as a warning on the can by the manufacturer, with a month of cure time any finish should be fine for food contact.
Hop on Amazon and order Bob Flexner's upcoming 3rd edition of his book "Understanding Wood Finishing". It hits the street in the coming days. It is the bible of wood finishing and will serve you well.