When you consider the amount of time it takes a green rough turned bowl to dry enough to finish the segmentation would be a lot quicker start to finish. You would just have quite a bit more hands on time. I do like the fact that the glueup can give you 100 percent side grain to turn.The pros are a lot less mess and faster to turn. The cons are it takes longer to cut and glue everything. It was a fun process and I will definitely make some more.
Gary no drying time is one of the best parts. I should have put that in the pros.When you consider the amount of time it takes a green rough turned bowl to dry enough to finish the segmentation would be a lot quicker start to finish. You would just have quite a bit more hands on time. I do like the fact that the glueup can give you 100 percent side grain to turn.
In segmenting, there is really no absolute right way (or wrong way) to do things ... some just work better than others. It looks like this process is working for you!This is my process for making the rings. If anybody sees a problem or easier way feel free to let me know.
Rusty from the looks of your joints the angle must be pretty exact if you can glue the entire ring at once. To add to what John said I cover my assembly board with poly sheeting then take the first piece put some glue on it and run the 2nd piece against it to evenly spread the glue on both then put glue on the other side of the second piece and rub the 3rd piece. Set the 3rd piece down and push 1 & 2 together, then the 3rd to the 4th ETC. and when all of the joints have glue put the hose clamp on, hammer the joints even and wash the glue off of both sides. Note; I flatten the rings with my drum sander and excess glue is hard on the sanding belt but the joint between rings is near perfect.I'm following. That's how I did it early on. Lately after years of not making segmented pieces I put glue on both piece and push them together lightly. I don't try to squeeze the glue out. I do this on a board that is flat and waxed. When I get the ring assembled I put the hose clamp on and squeeze the ring fairly snug. then I use a plastic mallet to drive them all flat and snug up the clamp further. I wipe off the glue on the top surface. I have done what you do years ago and still do on compound miter rings.
My brother is cutting a set of Wedgies for me on his CNC router. Also doing the parts for the Wedgie Sled. (He’s bored of making flags )
I’m hoping to cut segments accurate enough to glue the entire ring at once.
I'm hoping to eliminate the tedious angle setting and the need to cut test segments. We'll see...The first step is to set the saw as accurately as possible to the required angle, which in 8 segment rings is 22 1/2 degrees. The secondary table is mounted and a set of segments is cut from low grade material and dry fitted to checked for accuracy. This jig also has the advantage of cutting every possible segment from a strip.
I know that my method may seem tedious but by clamping the piece to be cut down and fine tuning the angle you guarantee repeatability.I'm hoping to eliminate the tedious angle setting and the need to cut test segments. We'll see...
How do you adjust the sled and how do you know if the angle is accurate if you don't do a test ring. It only takes seconds of a degree to cause miss fit.Wedgie Sled will allow cutting the angle accurately enough to glue the ring together all at once. Need to pay attention to getting the sled square and parallel when you make it.
Phil
If you are referring to the segment jig post the wood used for test rings is partially rotten black ash.What type of wood is that in your picture Don?
Accuracy depends on the wedgie angle being dead-nuts on and the fence edges exactly parallel with the opposite edge. Presumably the CNC router will take care of this.How do you adjust the sled and how do you know if the angle is accurate if you don't do a test ring. It only takes seconds of a degree to cause miss fit.